Kính gửi quý anh chị bộ ảnh về
If you’d like to explore Laos by motorcycle, come ride with the man who mapped it.
Well here I sit in Laos again, I have been putting around the place
on and off for 10 years now. Mostly traveling by motorcycle, no surprise
there. However I am now into offroading. This little hobby started
around 1999 when I took my first backpacking trip after 15 years sailing
around the globe on my sailboat Espritdemer. This land trip took in
Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia. All countries I was able to rent
bikes with the exception of Laos. And Laos, in those years was just
opening up to tourism. Well so off to Singapore and buy a bike. Were I
found a trusty ole Xl600 Honda. This good ole bike made many trips up
through Thailand, Malaysia, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam and Borneo. To cut a
long story short eventually I moved down to a smaller more nimble bike
an XR400. In around 2003 I discovered the ancient Kymer Empire known as
Ankor Wat. Cambodia at the time was just coming out of the Kymer Rouge
era and the country was in a shambles with and dilapidated road network,
which had more oxcarts than cars in the country. Well with the
combination of great offroad riding and the lure of ancient temples in
the Jungles. (Indiana Jones). I spent a few seasons with my GPS mapping,
discovering many ancient temples and ancient road networks across the
land. Wow great fun and memories, until development caught up with the
place and it became a bit ordinary. The fantastic temples, surrounded by
landmine signs with skull and crossbones that I would camp inside,
would now have ticket gates guards and tourists!!
So my attention turned northwards towards Laos and in the theme of
ancient roads, the Ho Chi Minh trails were the next target. Of course
with all the GPS gear from the boat and a few navigation skills. I used
the incredible US Military maps to find the old trails which were
intact, lots of war junk along the trails and the main source of income
for the locals was selling the metal to the Vietnamese which was then
melted down in smelters.
So blah blah blah. After a few years of this great fun I continued to
map the whole of the country and produce the LaosGPSmap which you can
see on the web site. However the Ho Chi Minh trail continues to be a
passion, In fact I am writing this from Xepon site of one of the biggest
battles of war. The Lao and Vietnamese are have a huge celebration and
dedication ceremony at the new war museum here at Ban Dong.
To me it was a dark, foreboding place where we knew the enemy was
creeping up on us and we were shooting at ghosts, just every once in a
while happening to hit something important. Not enough to stem the tide.
Army OH-6 and an USMC
CH-53 were seen on a hill just south of Tchepone in March 1971 after
they were brought down by a North Vietnamese 37mm battery
Excerpt,”I participated in two invasions of Cambodia.The first was
the U.S. invasion in the Spring of 1970. The second was in early 1971 (a
couple of weeks before my tour of duty was over) when the South
Vietnamese alone invaded Cambodia but were supported by U.S. gunship and
medevac aircraft. During that second invasion, I never saw Cambodia
during the day, as all of my medevac border crossings came at or after
sunset.
One night while we were deep in Cambodia (North of Phnom Penh) we
were hijacked by some ARVN’s (Army Republic of Vietnam) who were losing a
battle. Because of the large number of casualties, the mission called
for two Dustoff aircraft. I was the first bird in and CW2 was right
behind us with his. Our landing site was to the center of a ring of
tanks and and APC’s (armored personnel carriers) located on the top of a
large bare (defoliated) hill top surrounded by thick jungle. All of the
tanks and APC’s were outward and engaging with the enemy. The chaos
reminded me of an old Western movie where the encircled wagon train was
defending itself from Indian attacks from all sides.
When we “touched down” the ARVN’s abandoned their wounded and swarmed
my aircraft. My medic and crewchief started to throw the unwounded off
the aircraft when the ARVN’s pointed their weapons at us. I told my crew
to get back on board and close the cargo doors when they could. I tried
to pick our bird up to a hover, but with all the ARVNs on board, we
were well over our Gross Max Weight limits and our rotor (RPM) would
keep bleeding off. Since we were sitting ducks where we were, I decided
to try a running take off and attempt to reach “translational lift” by
running (sliding along on our skids) down the hillside.
I was surrounded by armored vehicles, so I looked for an opening between
two vehicles that was large enough to fit, but ended up clipping off
both of their FM whip antennas. Once outside of the circle of armored
vehicles we started our run down the hillside with all lights out except
our search light (the scan of which I controlled by my thumb on the
cyclic). We slid and bounced toward the tree line, slowly gaining ground
speed by nursing the rotor RPM, engine RPM and Torque settings gingerly
to achieve lift off. As we cleared the the tree tops, I turned the
search light off and began a slow climb and increase in airspeed. I
radioed Stan to warn him what he was in for and asked my crew for a head
count of ARVN’s on board. My crew chief said it was a “…pile of
assholes and elbows and shit eating smiles…” that he estimated the count
at 17-18 or more. Then my medic shouted that we had an ARVN hanging
from the skids! I immediately reduced airspeed and power to begin a
descent. I remember thinking,'”Man oh man, now what are you going to do?
You’ve got a guy on the skids and a triple canopy jungle beneath you
and it’s pitch black out there and you’re in the middle of bad guy
country along the Ho Chi Minh Trail.”. As I continued my descent, I
decided to look for a road or clearing that would allow me enough room
for a “run on landing” and a “run on take off”. Shortly thereafter my
medic came on the intercom and said, “Never mind, we lost him.”.I
immediately looked at my altimeter and saw that we were about 700 feet
AGL (above ground level). I finally got through to Stan, but it was too
late. They pulled weapons on him as well and I think he pulled out 18
ARVN’s as well. I radioed back to Tay Ninh for MP’s to meet us, but they
were late arriving at the pad and all of the deserters disappeared into
the night. ”
end quote
.
May
and June 1966 were particularly deadly for the fliers over Steel Tiger
North. The gunners were getting better at their duties and tactics by
the time the dry season started giving way to the deluges of the summer
monsoon. On the evening of May 15th Spooky 10 disappeared with eight
crewmen aboard. The AC-47 was orbiting just east of the Chokes when the
ABCCC controller took the crew’s last position report.
The
big meadow, into which Captain Harley and Airman Guillot crashed, was
already well on its way to becoming a major storage complex and
transshipment center. From that cloudy day on, the valley also became
known to the fliers at NKP as “Harley’s Valley.”
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